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The Kandy Esala Perahera 2009


The much improved security situation following the end of the war and the joy felt by so many Sri Lankans led to the 2009 Kandy Perahera being the largest and best attended for many years. This immense procession of dancers, musicians and, of course, highly decorated elephants is all about encouraging rain (which, in our experience, doesn't seem to need much encouraging around Kandy). The procession starts with young men strolling down the street cracking large whips to signify thunder. The local people shower the road with coins. Then numerous dancers do amazing things with fire and flaming devices. This one is high up on stilts and is twirling a burning circular device fixed to his head. Poya Day Wednesday August 5th 2009	The huge, grey elephants represent the clouds heavy with moisture. Not that one could see much of the elephants beneath their elaborate costumes. And to really encourage rain the Tooth Relic of the Buddha is carried around on the back of the most important and biggest tusker of all. This year, as the picture above shows, this caparisoned elephant sported a predominantly white outfit, and looked quite magnificent. This picture was taken on the last night of the ten day festival from the grounds of the Methodist Church which is helpfully situated on the route. The Church allows its members and friends to attend free of charge, although families of police officers seemed to make up most of the friends.

It was a very long day for everyone. We arrived at the Methodist Church before 5pm because we wanted to secure a place and because we thought the streets would be sealed off well before the procession begins as has happened in previous years. We had to wait until nearly 9pm before the first whip cracked and it was at least another hour before the elephants arrived. We had come prepared with a Scrabble set to pass some time in the church hall. We were hugely impressed by the peacefulness of the crowds which must surely compare most favourably with any similarly massive crowd in UK. The complete lack of alcohol and the still significant police presence no doubt contribute but so too might the genuine devotion of many ordinary people. It was also a very long day for the elephants too. This picture shows one, in front of the floodlit Tooth Temple, being led away after de-robing. We hope it got to bed before we did - at 1:45am.

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