A Visit to Jaffna: 12th-17th April 2010 - continued

Jaffna railway station was destroyed by the Sri Lankan air force in the nineties.  Only five bombs were needed.  The railway line to Jaffna from the south is now being re-constructed but it will take a long time and lots and lots of money.  We saw track being laid 100km to the south a few kilometres to the north of the Omantai check point. Jaffna's old Dutch fort is the largest in Asia and had stood the test of time since 1680.  But it too was severely damaged in the 30 years of war.  A Sri Lankan army base is still inside.

Jaffna public library and its contents (including some ancient manuscripts) was infamously destroyed in 1981 and caused great offence to the population who were very proud of the library that symbolised the local commitment to education.  It was rebuilt using Indian money.

The Roman Catholic Cathedral of St Mary is cavernous.

The Nallur temple in Jaffna is the biggest Hindu temple complex in Sri Lanka.  Men are expected to removed their shirts when entering - an excellent idea given the heat, and the cool tiles are very pleasant under bare feet.

Inside another Hindu temple on the island of Nagadeepa, a woman takes part in a fertility rite.

The land to the north of Jaffna city is very fertile and much prized.  The groundwater is such that wells can be dug to irrigate.  Here we see a tobacco crop. Later the same day, we also saw grapes and bought a bottle of wine for the TCL Chapel and some also Nelli cordial, a Jaffna fruit, both made by some Rosarian sisters in their convent.

Much of the fertile land north of Jaffna has been enclosed in a set of High Security Zones controlled by the Army.  When these were created in twenty or so years ago the entire population was removed to ensure the safety of an air field and a port.  The population is still waiting to return to the land, still living in temporary accommodation.

In the south you can't escape pictures of President Rajapaksa.  In Jaffna you can't escape pictures of Douglas Devananda, the new local strongman.  He is the leader of the EPDP (Eelam People's Democratic Party) that is an ally of the government.

This was taken at Nagadeepa Buddhist Temple on an island near Jaffna, referring to the divinity and kingship of President Rajapaksa.

 

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